With front assemblies, I think the very first thing you must realize is
that the shoulder assembly is "held on" only by muscles and ligaments
referred to as the shoulder girdle group, not by a fixed ball and socket
joint such as the rear assembly. The front end is *mostly* used for its
"pole vault" effect while the rear is the motor which pushes the dog
along. A dog does not pull itself forward as much from the front but
rather is pushed along more from behind. (There *is* some pulling action
on the front end, but it is not the major driving force that propels the
dog foward.) It is extremely important that both ends of the dog are in
balance.
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Anyway, back to the muscles and ligaments. What most of us think of
first is the term "angulation" when dealing with a front assembly. This is
just a part of it, but does determine how much reach a dog displays. The
upper arm meets the shoulder blade at nearly a right angle. This is easy
to feel if you know where to put your hands. The shoulder blade is a wide, flat bone with a ridge running right down the
center. The ridge is there for attachment of the muscles - the longer the
shoulder blade the more attachment, the shorter the blade, less attachment.
If you put your dog on a table in a show stance with the elbow under the
withers and the foot in the proper position (positioning the foot either
forward or further back can change the angle of the shoulder blade -
lowering or raising the head can throw it off, too) you can easily find the
"ridge" along the shoulder blade. I place my fingers along where I think the spine is located and gently move them back and forth as indicated by the arrows to locate the actual ridge. This is a more accurate representation
of the actual layback than just "spotting" what you think is the top of the
shoulder blade and the point of the shoulder. Once you have determined the
line of the ridge, you can see exactly whether the blade is well laid back
(pointing further toward the back of the dog) or more upright (pointing
more at the sky than at the dog's tail). Next, placing your fingers at
the point of the shoulder, you can actually feel the joint where the
shoulder blade meets the upper arm. What we see as the point of the
shoulder is actually the outside "bump" of the end of the humerus or upper
arm, with the inside "bump" the ball part of the ball and socket joint of
the shoulder blade/upper arm junction. It is easy to see why the dwarf PWC
standard calls for an upper arm *nearly* as long as the shoulder blade -
for most breeds the upper arm is longer than the shoulder blade - so the
dwarf dog's upper arm can't be longer, but should be nearly the same length.
To give the concept a concrete picture in your mind - let's go back to that
ridge on the shoulder blade again. If you drew a line that extended that
ridge of the shoulder blade on out in front of the dog to the ground, you
would have a pretty good idea how much front reach that dog would be expected to
have. |
While layback and reach is just one component of the front assembly on a
dog, it is an extremely important one to understand. While I have known
some dogs that could "outreach" their layback, they were few and far
between and usually had more relaxed ligamentation all over. That is why
some pups seem to move so well in the front reach department and seem to
have such lovely reach of neck until they mature, when the forward stride
becomes shortened and they take on a stuffy look. Once those muscles
develop and ligaments tighten up you can see an appreciable difference in
their gait.
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A lot of the overall length in a Pembroke comes from the
breadth of the front and rear angulation, not from the ribcage. That
combined with the shorter legs, makes the dog look even longer. A dog with
upright shoulders and straight stifles may have the same length of back as
a better angled dog, but will look much shorter overall. A dog with a
shortened front reach will also have some bounce over the withers due to
pounding - the front leg is literally pounded into the ground by the rear
drive of the dog. A dog with lessened rear angulation will not produce as
much pounding or bounce because they are more in balance (there's that word
again!) |
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